Winter’s doldrums got you down? Grab a screwdriver and a hammer and fight back with easy home repairs that’ll raise spirits and get your house ready for spring.
Accomplishments — even little ones — go a long way toward a sunny outlook. Fortunately, there are plenty of easy, quick home repair chores you can do when you’re mired in the thick of winter. For max efficiency, make a to-do list ahead of time and shop for all the tools and supplies in one trip. On your work days, put the basics in a caddy and carry it from room to room, checking off completed tasks as you speed through them.

What to look (and listen) for
In each room, look around and take stock of what needs fixing or improving. Focus on small, quick-hit changes, not major redos. Here are some likely suspects:
1. Sagging towel rack or wobbly toilet tissue holder. Unscrew the fixture and look for the culprit. It’s probably a wimpy, push-in type plastic drywall anchor. Pull that out (or just poke it through the wall) and replace it with something more substantial. Toggle bolts are strongest, and threaded types such as E-Z Ancor are easy to install.
2. Squeaky door hinges. Eliminate squeaks by squirting a puff of powdered graphite ($2.50 for a 3-gram tube) alongside the pin where the hinge turns. If the door sticks, plane off a bit of the wood, then touch up the paint so the surgery isn’t noticeable.
3. Creaky floor boards. They’ll shush if you fasten them down better. Anti-squeak repair kits, such as Squeeeeek No More ($23), feature specially designed screws that are easy to conceal. A low-cost alternative: Dust a little talcum powder into the seam where floorboards meet — the talcum acts as a lubricant to quiet boards that rub against each other.
4. Rusty shutoff valves. Check under sinks and behind toilets for the shutoff valves on your water supply lines. These little-used valves may slowly rust in place over time, and might not work when you need them most. Keep them operating by putting a little machine oil or WD-40 on the handle shafts. Twist the handles back and forth to work the oil into the threads. If they won’t budge, give the oil a couple of hours to penetrate, and try again.
5. Blistered paint on shower ceilings. This area gets a lot of heat and moisture that stresses paint finishes. Scrape off old paint and recoat, using a high-quality exterior-grade paint. Also, be sure everyone uses the bathroom vent when showering to help get rid of excess moisture.
6. Loose handles or hinges on furniture, cabinets, and doors. You can probably fix these with a few quick turns of a screwdriver. But if a screw just spins in place, try making the hole fit the screw better by stuffing in a toothpick coated with glue, or switching to a larger screw.
Safety items
You know those routine safety checks you keep meaning to do but never have the time? Now’s the time.
7. Carbon monoxide and smoke detectors. If you don’t like waking up to the annoying chirp of smoke detector batteries as they wear down, do what many fire departments recommend and simply replace all of them at the same time once a year.
8. Ground-fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) outlets. You’re supposed to test them once a month, but who does? Now’s a great time. You’ll find them around potentially wet areas — building codes specify GFCI outlets in bathrooms, kitchens, and for outdoor receptacles. Make sure the device trips and resets correctly. If you find a faulty outlet, replace it or get an electrician to do it for $75 to $100.

Another good project is to replace your GFCIs with the latest generation of protected outlets that test themselves, such as Levitron’s SmartlockPro Self-Test GFCI ($28). You won’t have to manually test ever again!
9. Exhaust filter for the kitchen stove. By washing it to remove grease, you’ll increase the efficiency of your exhaust vent; plus, if a kitchen stovetop fire breaks out, this will help keep the flames from spreading.
10. Clothes dryer vent. Pull the dryer out from the wall, disconnect the vent pipe, and vacuum lint out of the pipe and the place where it connects to the machine. Also, wipe lint off your exterior dryer vent so the flap opens and closes easily. (You’ll need to go outside for that, but it’s quick.) Remember that vents clogged with old dryer lint are a leading cause of house fires.
11. Drain hoses. Inspect your clothes washer, the dishwashers, and the icemaker. If you see any cracks or drips, replace the hose so you don’t come home to a flood one day.
12. Electrical cords. Replace any that are brittle, cracked, or have damaged plugs. If you’re using extension cords, see if you can eliminate them — for example, by replacing that too-short lamp cord with one that’s longer. If you don’t feel up to rewiring the lamp yourself, drop it off at a repair shop as you head out to shop for your repair materials. It might not be ready by the end of the day. But, hey, one half-done repair that you can’t check off is no big deal, right?

Rates will likely stay below 5% for at least the first half of the year, industry experts say.

By Amy Hoak of MarketWatch

Mortgage rates should remain low in 2012, especially in the first half of the year, according to the predictions of several industry watchers.

“We may spend the entire year below 5%,” said Greg McBride, senior financial analyst for Bankrate.com, referring to the average interest rate for a 30-year fixed-rate mortgage.

Rates may even fall to new lows early this year, particularly if the European debt crisis hits a crescendo, McBride added.

Already, rates are sitting at record lows. The 30-year fixed-rate mortgage averaged 3.91% for the week ending Jan. 5, according to Freddie Mac’s weekly survey of conforming mortgage rates. That ties the record for the lowest rates that have been in the history of the survey. In contrast, the highest average was 18.63% set in 1981, according to Freddie Mac.

In general, the financial troubles in Europe, combined with the Federal Reserve’s pledge to keep short-term rates on hold at least through 2013, will keep mortgage rates from rising significantly, McBride said.

Europe’s woes have caused a “flight to quality” among investors, sending their money in the direction of U.S. bonds, which has the effect of lowering mortgage rates. The Fed’s short-term rate policy also reduces long-term rates, since long-term rates “reflect expectations of where short-term rates will be in the future,” he said.

Lately, consumers have been conditioned to expect low rates. Last year, the 30-year fixed-rate conforming mortgage had its lowest annual average on record at 4.66%, according to Bankrate.

According to Freddie Mac, the 30-year mortgage averaged 4.5% in 2011; the lowest weekly rates on record were posted toward the end of the year.

But whereas rates fell in the second half of 2011, they are expected to rise at least somewhat during the second half of 2012, said Frank Nothaft, chief economist of Freddie Mac.

“Operation Twist is scheduled to remain in effect until June,” Nothaft said. The intent of Operation Twist, or the Federal Reserve’s Maturity Extension Program, is to push — and keep — long-term interest rates low, which means rates should stay low for the first half of the year, he said. The Fed plan, announced in September, involves buying long-term securities and selling $400 billion in short-term debt.

But the Fed hasn’t made a commitment on whether it will extend the program beyond the June cutoff, Nothaft said.

Economic outlook
An improving economy could also cause rates to rise.

Rates on a conforming 30-year fixed-rate mortgage are expected to average 4.2% in the first quarter of 2012, and should average 4.8% by the fourth quarter, according to Freddie Mac’s forecast.

Meanwhile, HSH Associates, a publisher of consumer loan information, predicts conforming, 30-year fixed-rate mortgages will remain between 3.85% and 4.85% throughout 2012.

“Things appear to be improving domestically. The economy, employment, the housing market are showing signs of warming,” said Keith Gumbinger, vice president at HSH.

While the troubles of 2011 will certainly carry over into the new year, at least some upward emphasis on mortgage rates is expected “as things start to look a little more rosy,” he said.

But those who aren’t as optimistic about the growth of the economy have different rate forecasts. For example, Fannie Mae’s chief economist, Doug Duncan, expects rates will stay relatively flat all year, with the 30-year fixed-rate mortgage rising to 4.1% or 4.2% at the most by the fourth quarter.

The low-rate environment means that even people who have been improving their credit quality for the past five years may have a shot at scoring some of the lowest mortgage rates in history — and they may add sales to the housing market in the process, Duncan said.

Some mortgage market watchers also think that lenders may be more willing to work with borrowers with good but not great credit in the year ahead, as the housing market and economy show some signs of improvement and lenders look to grow their business.

“I don’t see credit becoming appreciably easier. But I think what you will see is more lenders willing to dip their toes into the waters of 700 and 720 credit-score consumers,” McBride said. “You may end up, as a consumer, seeing more lenders at the table for those that have good credit scores and not just those who have great credit scores.”

But despite continued favorable mortgage rates, don’t expect great strides in the housing market just yet. The economy is still weak and unemployment is still high — two strong headwinds pushing against housing demand, even though affordability is so high, Nothaft said.

“Consumer confidence is still relatively low. And what a low reading for consumer confidence means is that consumers are nervous about their economic well-being,” he said. “If you’re feeling ill at ease, you will be reluctant to buy something that costs $200,000 to $300,000 and commit to monthly payments for 30 years.”

From a fresh coat of white paint to choosing comfortable, neutral furniture, decorating experts share their advice on how happiness starts at home.

Mix It Up

"The most interesting rooms mix cultures and periods," says real estate broker Royce Pinkwater. "I like to juxtapose high and low. It makes it more casual and homey." Collaborating with the designer Eric Cohler, she decorated the living room of her New York apartment with a 1930s coffee table by Jean Dunand, ’40s armchairs by Andre Arbus, ’50s Swedish slipper chairs, and a ’70s mirror by Neal Small.

Choose Colors That Flatter You

"I think I speak for all women — and probably men — when I say I want a room to show me off at my best," says Pinkwater. She decided on lavender to complement her green eyes. Michael Taylor chair. Karl Springer dressing table.

Decorate With What You Love

When painter and stylist Craig Schumacher moved from a 10-room Dallas house into a four-room apartment, it didn’t hamper his style. His decorating look became layer upon layer: "I bought things I knew I’d never tire of, and I’ve found out that if you love something, you’ll find a place for it." His living room is furnished with antiques and vintage pieces, including a faux fireplace added for its architectural interest.

Remember the Power of White Paint

"White reflects light, so it sends off a wonderful energy, a prism of color that you aren’t necessarily aware of," says designer Susan Noble Jones. In this 1820s New Orleans cottage, the designer used the hue to transform the formerly dark dining room into a space that’s light and cheery. Walls are Frostine by Benjamin Moore. Ligne Roset Tania chairs ring a table made of reclaimed cherry wood.

Choose Furniture With Curves

Round shapes, such as the living room’s drum shade and coffee table, make a space feel inviting. "They soften a room and make a house more lovable and livable," Jones says. Dessin Fournir skirted chairs. Fambuena Dress pendant. Minton-Spidell coffee table.

Keep Seating Neutral

Stay away from large pieces upholstered in a bold color or busy pattern — it will make a room feel heavier. "When the sofa is white, it feels lighter, more conducive to conversation," says designer Pat Healing, who decorated this home for a young family in upstate New York. Bird’s Nest Cocktail Table by HB Home; Campion chandelier, Urban Electric.

Make a Colorful Statement in the Entry

First impressions count. "I think you need to make a strong statement in entry halls — to give an indicator of what you’ll see in the rest of the house," Healing says. "I use color because to do that creates happiness." Custom bench in S. Harris’s Calypso. China Seas’ San Marco wallpaper.

Include Some Whimsy

"Little surprises keep a house from becoming too serious," says contributing editor Frances Schultz. "It’s fun to put items in unexpected places." In her Long Island cottage, she perked up the foot of the stairs with an inherited collection of Staffordshire figures.

Go Bold in a Small Space

"The smaller the room, the more drama you need," designer David Netto says. In this East Hampton beach cottage, a graphic botanical pattern perks up the guest room. "The Svenskt Tenn Hawaii fabric by Josef Frank is so bold, it creates a little world within the bed alcove." Frette bedding

Create Beauty by Contrast

The juxtaposition of humble and fine materials creates intrigue and keeps a room feeling interesting and attractive. "The most vivid example of combining humble materials with precious ones is in the kitchen," Netto says. He tucked Nero Marquina marble under a white Corian island, "concealing it for maximum impact and surprise." Barstools are by George Nakashima. Pendant lights from Circa Lighting.

By: John Riha HouseLogic.com

Every square foot of your home is valuable. Here are seven storage solutions that take advantage of underutilized nooks and crannies. And just for fun, we did some back-of-the-napkin calculations based on the average price per square foot of a U.S. home ($81)—so we could attach a theoretical value to the bonus space.

Stairway to Storage Heaven

Tuck pull-out drawers under sturdy stairs. They’re ideal for stashing extra linens and seasonal items. Each drawer provides about two square feet of storage. If you really could calculate this on a value per square foot realized, that’s roughly $162 worth of extra space per drawer!

It Came from Below!

Basement crawl spaces or open areas under apartment floors can be lined with shelves and outfitted with folding stairs to hoard anything. A finished 10-square-foot crawl space uncovers about $8,100 of space value and can even lower your energy bills.

Sleep-Away Storage

Not enough room for a Carrie Bradshaw closet? No problem. This mattress lifts to reveal a hidden compartment great for stashing bulky blankets. It could save you about $200, the price of a linen cabinet, and it provides about 20 square feet or about $1,587 of extra storage space.

Locker Room

Gain more kitchen space without a costly remodeling job. Reclaimed high school gym lockers sport a new use as built-in pantry compartments. These add 18 cubic feet or $243 in square feet of extra space.

Hidden Litter

Some things are best left hidden, and kitty’s business is one of them. An inexpensive, storage cabinet doubles as a rest stop for this tabby, who enters and exists via a small framed opening. Store the litter box and all its accoutrements in one spot and gain about $205 worth of storage space.

Overhead Room

Give your storage space a lift—overhead areas, such as narrow hallways, make an ideal place for floating shelves and cabinets. You could gain up to 2.5 square feet, valued at $203 of space, in no time!

Seasonal Stash

Keep wrapping paper out of sight but not out of mind by suspending it from your closet ceiling on a simple cradle of wire. It’s easy to reach but won’t get torn or creased. In a closet that’s 6 feet wide by 2 feet deep, this trick makes 12 more square feet of storage worth about $972.

The cold, wet stuff has a way of ar­riving without regard for our busy schedules. It’s not a problem if the only items on your to-do list are making snow angels and taking a nap, but if you need to clear the path to the car quickly—and drive off safely—it pays to prepare. Start with the right equipment and deicers, then stick to these time-tested removal methods. You’ll be on your way—or back inside making cocoa—in no time.

Before the ground freezes…

…drive tall stakes around plant beds near paths and driveways so that you know where to stop shoveling.

Pro Tip: “If your shrubs get loaded down with snow, leave them alone—you’ll do more damage trying to shake it off.” —Rick Kier, president, Pro Scapes Landscape and Lawn Care, Jamesville, N.Y.

A liquid magnesium chloride blend…

…applied with a garden sprayer a few hours before a storm, can melt slow accumulations of less than 2 inches and keep ice from bonding to hard surfaces. Count on using 1 gallon for every 1,000 square feet.

Look for a shovel…

…with a lightweight plastic or aluminum blade coated with a nonstick finish to make loading and unloading a breeze. Avoid a blade so big you’ll be tempted to overload it; an ergonomic, S-shaped shaft will save your back by requiring less bending. Avoid using metal blades on softer materials, such as wooden decking. A pusher—basically a shovel with a C-shaped blade—is handy for clearing lightweight, fluffy snow.

Pros recommend…

…shoveling several times, even while it’s still storming, so that snow doesn’t get a chance to bond to surfaces. (It’s also a lot easier to shovel 2 inches of snow than 5.) Get down to the pavement beneath so that sunlight can warm it up and prevent ice from forming.

Don’t heap snow…

…on foundation walls, where melting water can refreeze and cause cracks to widen, or against anything made of wood, which is also susceptible to water damage.

Rock salt is cheap…

…and works at temperatures above 12 degrees F, but it’s tough on shrubs and grass and can eat away at concrete. Two other salts, magnesium chloride and calcium chloride, cost more but are less harsh (though still not great for plants) and work at much lower temps than rock salt (from 20 to 25 degrees below zero F). Still pricier is a nonsalt option called urea. It’s usually used as a fertilizer, and it can be a little tough to find. Wear gloves when spreading any deicer by hand. For large areas, use a handheld spreader or a push spreader, but not a grass spreader (the deicing granules will gunk up its gears). Store deicers off the floor or in a sealed bucket to keep them dry.

Use sand or kitty litter…

…to add traction to slippery surfaces. Choose sandbox sand over mason’s sand, which is too fine. Or try alfalfa meal, a slow-acting fertilizer that also helps melt snow—your yard will thank you.

A snowblower is quickest…

…to clear large flat areas. Use one when there’s at least 11/2 inches of white stuff on the ground. Before each use, spray the exit chute with silicone to keep snow from sticking (furniture polish also works). When you’re done, let the machine run for a few minutes to dry out, which will help prevent vital parts from being damaged by freezing. Then drive carefully—or stay home and build a snowman with the kids.

It’s time to put some of your tools to bed and prepare your home for the cold months.

By Roy Berendsohn of Popular Mechanics

You may be prepared for the snow to fall, but you had better make sure your home and tools are ready for the cold months ahead. We’ll tell you how to properly store those tools you won’t need, and how to prepare the ones you’ll be using this winter.

Mower
A mower used at the end of the season needs to be emptied of fuel. First, drain or siphon the gas tank dry. If the gasoline you’ve been using in the mower over the summer has a fuel preservative, you can store it until next spring or run it in your snow thrower. If the gasoline has not had a preservative added, you need to use it up as soon as possible. Allowing it to sit over the winter will cause the ethanol in the gasoline to separate and its other chemical components to degrade. It’s also likely that condensation will form in the gas tank.

Start and run the mower to empty it of remaining gas. If fuel lines are easily accessible, you can disconnect and drain them to ensure that the mower is as fuel-free over the winter as possible. (Note: There’s another school of thought here, espoused by pros such as Matt Scherbring of Iowa’s Monticello Equipment Co. He advocates adding stabilizer to a mower’s fuel tank, running the mower and then putting it away for the season. "Nine times out of 10, it’ll start right up in the spring," he said.)

You should give your mower a thorough cleaning before the winter, too. Remove and sharpen the mower blade. Apply a light film of oil to it and reinstall it. Disconnect the spark plug lead, tip the mower over and clean the underside of the deck with a wire brush and a putty knife.

Remove the spark plug and spray a shot of oil into the cylinder. Pull the recoil handle several times to ensure that this film of oil is evenly distributed on the wall of the cylinder. Replace the spark plug with a new one.

Clean or replace the air filter. Wipe the top of the mower deck clean. Lubricate all exposed cable-movement points and pivot points using a good-quality spray lubricant. Change the mower’s oil.

Finally, store the mower as far as practical from pool chemicals, cleaners or fertilizers — anything that could cause corrosion if it spilled on the mower deck.

Trimmer
The procedure for storing a four-cycle string trimmer is identical to that for a mower, but remember to clean the string head and install new line.

For two-stroke string trimmers, things are a bit simpler. Run the machine dry; clean or replace the air filter. Clean and rewind the string head. Sharpen the string-cutting blade on the debris deflector.

Chain saw
If you rely on a chain saw for winter woodcutting, now is the time to give the saw a thorough cleaning, tune-up and sharpening. Buy extra chain and, if you do a lot of cutting in frozen wood or in dirty winter conditions, consider buying a pro-grade bar with a replaceable nose sprocket.

If experience has taught you that you need to run your chain saw at a moment’s notice to clear your driveway or remove storm damage, consider storing the saw with packaged fuel in the gas tank. One example is Stihl’s MotoMix. This fuel consists of high-octane gasoline without ethanol. It’s blended with premium two-stroke engine oil at a 50:1 ratio. Otherwise, mix up a fresh-batch of two-stroke fuel using the highest octane gasoline you can find and two-stroke engine oil that is blended with gasoline preservative/stabilizer.

Snow thrower
If you haven’t prepared your snow thrower for the rigors of winter, now is the time to give it a tune-up, following the same procedure that you used on your lawn mower or string trimmer (if it’s an older single-stage machine powered by a two-stroke engine). In the case of four-cycle engines, however, be sure to use a winter grade of engine oil.

Buy extra shear pins. The last thing you want to do is hit a fallen tree limb buried in the snow, snap a shear pin and put your snow thrower out of commission. Keep the pins where you can find them, preferably hanging on a magnetic tool strip above your workbench.

Lubricate all linkages. The chute crank and various operator levers can take a beating in extremely cold and wet conditions. Lubricate all pivot and wear points and thoroughly test that they move easily before putting the snow thrower into service.

Consider all other spare parts. You don’t want to have a drive belt fly apart in the middle of clearing your driveway or a slide shoe grind a groove into it. Inspect these parts and be sure that any retaining bolts, clips and other parts are lubricated and turn freely, in case you need to bring the machine into the garage for a quick adjustment or repair.

Other jobs
Shovel ready: Now is the time to give your snow shovel a quick once-over. If it has an aluminum wear strip that’s loose, tighten it, remove it or replace the shovel. Take a file and clean up any ragged plastic or aluminum edges.

Snow-shovel blades are notorious for loosening in the handle socket. Remove the cheap little sheet-metal screw they installed at the factory and replace it with a larger screw.

The only things more useful than a snow shovel are a square-edge No. 2 shovel (the kind you use for shoveling sand and gravel) and a round-edge version of the same tool (the kind you use for digging in dirt). Both of these can be lifesavers if you need to loosen up the berm formed by a passing snowplow at the end of the driveway, or if you have to chop through the snow and then move the remainder with your snow shovel. Grind or file away any ragged edges on the blade. If the blade is loose in the socket, re-rivet it. Yes, you can still buy shovel-handle rivets.

Lawn care: Apply fall fertilizer to your lawn. This should be a high-nitrogen blend that contains extra potassium — that’s the "K" in the fertilizer’s NPK ratio listed on the bag. Potassium improves the grass’s cold-hardiness and, combined with nitrogen, it sets the stage for the grass to store carbohydrates over the winter so it can bounce back quickly in the spring. Rinse the fertilizer spreader out on the lawn, and be sure to sweep or blow fertilizer onto the lawn if it has fallen onto paved surfaces.

Salt: Stock up rock salt for routine ice-melting chores, but also buy some more expensive calcium-chloride pellets and save them for when conditions really get bad. These will melt ice at lower temperatures than rock salt; U.S. Salt Inc. says calcium chloride is effective all the way down to minus 25 Fahrenheit. Even if that’s a bit of a stretch, its ice-melting prowess is well-known and worth the money for severe conditions.

We’ve said it before, and we’ll say it again: Make repairs now and avoid disaster later. Have the boiler or furnace tuned, stock up on emergency supplies and make any repairs that keep the house safe and weather-tight. Example: The last thing you want is a loose handrail on the front stoop when someone is making his way up icy steps, in the dark, with the wind blowing in his face. You get the idea.

Don’t forget about exterior grading, indoor air quality

By Paul Bianchina

Fall is in the air already, which means that another chilly winter can’t be too far behind. So before the cold weather arrives, here’s your annual checklist of things to do to get your home ready for the change of season.

Inside your home

Check smoke detectors: Don’t neglect that smoke detector any longer! Take some time right now to check the operation of detectors, and to change the batteries. If you have an older house with a limited number of smoke detectors, install additional ones at each sleeping room, and make sure there is one centrally located on each level of the home as well.

Install a carbon monoxide detector: As houses get closed up for winter, the chances of carbon monoxide poisoning from malfunctioning gas appliances increases substantially. If you have a furnace, fireplace, water heater, or other appliance that’s fueled by propane or natural gas, or if you have an attached garage, install a carbon monoxide detector. They’re available inexpensively from many home centers and other retailers, and offer easy, plug-in installation

Service your heating system: Perform a complete system check of your furnace annually, either by yourself or by a trained furnace technician. Check for worn belts, lubrication needs or other servicing that might be required; refer to your owner’s manual for specific suggestions, and follow any manufacturer safety instructions for shutting the power and fuel to the furnace before servicing. Check the condition of duct joints and insulation, and of course, change the filter.

Upgrade your thermostat: An older thermostat that’s a couple of degrees off can result in a lot of wasted energy, and so can forgetting to set the thermostat down at night. You can take care of both of those problems with an upgrade to a programmable thermostat. Programmable thermostats are digital and typically very accurate, and they allow for easy, set-and-forget programming of temperatures for different times of the day, including energy-saving nighttime and workday setbacks.

Outside your home

Trim trees: Trees that are overhanging your home can be a real hazard. They can deposit debris on your roof, scrape against shingles during wind storms, and, worst of all, snap off with potentially devastating results. Have a professional tree trimming service inspect the condition of overhanging tree limbs, and safely cut them back as needed.

Check the gutters: Clear the gutters of leaf and pine needle debris, and check that the opening between the gutter and the downspout is unobstructed. Look for loose joints or other structural problems with the system, and repair them as needed using pop rivets. Use a gutter sealant to seal any connections where leaks may be occurring.

Break out the caulk: A few hours and few tubes of caulking can make a big difference in both your heating bills and your comfort levels this winter. Caulk around windows, doors, pipes, exterior electrical outlets, and any other exterior penetrations where cold air might enter. Use a good grade of acrylic latex caulk, either in a paintable white or, if you don’t want to paint, use clear.

Drain sprinkler systems: In colder areas, now is the time to be thinking about having your sprinkler and irrigation systems blown out. You can rent a compressor and do this yourself, or contact a landscape or irrigation system installer and have them handle this for you. This is also the time to shut off outdoor faucets and install freeze-proof faucet covers as needed.

Adjust exterior grade: Fall is also a great time to look at the grade around your home, and make sure that everything slopes away from your foundation to avoid costly problems with ground water. Add, remove or adjust soil grades as necessary for good drainage.

Change light timers: If you have exterior lights that are controlled by timers, including low-voltage ones, check the timer settings. Change the "on" times to an earlier hour to reflect the earlier winter darkness, so that you always have adequate outside light available.

By: Laura Fisher Kaiser, This Old House magazine

1. Beef Up Insulation in an Unfinished Attic

WHY NOW:
Baby, it’s cold outside—or it will be soon. "So pop your head up in the attic and check insulation levels," says Mike Rogers of GreenHomes America, which specializes in energy-efficient improvements. In addition to sealing gaps in the attic floor and framing, Rogers recommends upping insulation levels to R-49 or even as high as R-60 for most areas of the country.
HOW TO DO IT:
If insulation is level with or below the ceiling joists, add loose fiberglass or cellulose—even over existing batts—using a rented blower. Make sure the material is well distributed, with no low spots. "Even a small gap greatly undermines performance," Rogers says.
THE PAYOFF:
Up to 10 percent savings on your utility bills.

2. Add Storm Windows

WHY NOW:
Old single-pane windows leak copious amounts of air, which makes for chilly drafts come winter. By installing triple-track storms, you can dramatically reduce air infiltration and protect those lovely wavy-glass panes from the elements.
HOW TO DO IT:
Measure carefully to determine whether you can use standard-size storms or need to custom order. When you’re ready to install, position the unit in the window opening to check fit. Clean the window’s exterior frame and trim. Apply a bead of elastomeric caulk on the back of the storm’s surrounding fins, at the top and sides. Do not caulk the bottom of the storm: Moisture needs to drain through the pre-drilled weep holes. Position the storm unit in the window frame, pushing up snug at the top, and secure with screws. Adjust the storm’s built-in bottom extender bar to rest on the sill.
THE PAYOFF:
Storms cost a fraction of replacement windows, $60 to $110 compared with $300 to $700, and yield energy savings of 13 percent (21 percent with low-e storms).

3. Button Up Interior Doors to the Basement and Garage

WHY NOW:
It’s not just the front and back doors that you need to worry about. Cold air can also enter the house through gaps around any door leading to an uninsulated space, such as a garage or basement.
HOW TO DO IT:
Weatherstrip the top and sides, and add an inexpensive door sweep to the bottom. TOH general contractor Tom Silva recommends a wood sweep that you can stain or paint to match your door and that has an attached nylon brush to follow the contours of irregular flooring or carpeting. Sweeps usually need to be cut to size, so be sure to measure the width of the door first. To insulate the top and lock-side jambs, use peel-and-stick high-density foam tape or nail-on vinyl gaskets. For the hinge-side jamb, a premium adhesive-backed strip made of EDPM rubber will retain its shape after years of use.
THE PAYOFF:
For $20 and 30 minutes of your time, reduce cold air infiltration by as much as 11 percent.

4. Seal Exhaust Vents

WHY NOW:
Exterior vents, particularly those for a clothes dryer or a whole-house fan, allow heated air to seep out of your house, while letting cold outside air in.
HOW TO DO IT:
Swap your dryer’s louvered or metal flapper-style vent for a Dryer Vent Seal (About $20; Battic Door), which consists of an elbow pipe topped with a plastic cap and shuttle. When the dryer is in use, the floating shuttle beneath the hood rises to let warm air, lint, and moisture escape. When not in use, the shuttle drops down to seal the hole and prevent drafts. For a whole-house fan, construct a simple box-shaped cover out of rigid foam insulation (use foil-type duct tape for the seams) to enclose the fan during cold months, when it’s not in use. From inside the house, fit the cover over the fan, and secure it to the frame with adhesive-backed Velcro strips. Just remember to remove the cover before you switch on the fan come spring. This kind of DIY cover can also help insulate in-wall or window air-conditioning units that are left in year-round.
THE PAYOFF:
Vent sealing can prevent 4 percent of your home’s heated air from escaping.

5. Remove Aggressive Vines

WHY NOW:
On brick or stone home facades, climbers with suckers, such as Virginia creeper, pull the lime out of the mortar, creating entry points for water. Vines also hold moisture against walls, which can wreak havoc on wood clapboards, slowing their ability to dry out after a rain and causing rot. If vines get between boards, they can push them apart.
HOW TO DO IT:
"Pull all the vines off, working from the top down; cut them at the base, and dig out the roots," says TOH landscape contractor Roger Cook. To remove any residue left behind on wood siding, do a quick pass with an orbital sander. Come spring, paint an herbicide on any new growth.
THE PAYOFF:
You’ll avert having to spend up to $25 per square foot for professional mortar repointing. For wood houses, dodge up to $3,000 to re-side and rebuild a rotted clapboard wall.

6. Install a Solar Roof-Vent Fan

WHY NOW:
In winter, trapped heat can melt snow on the roof, which then refreezes, clogging gutters with ice. Water runoff from the roof gets trapped by the dam and eventually backs up the roof, travels under the shingles, and leaks into the house.
HOW TO DO IT:
"The trick is to keep the top and underside of the roof the same temperature," says Tom Silva. One way to do that in unfinished attics is with a solar roof-vent fan that draws in cold outside air through existing soffit or gable intakes and exhausts warm air that’s built up under the roof. Powered by the sun, the fan, which costs about $300, further saves you money in summer by cooling the attic so your air conditioner doesn’t have to work as hard.
THE PAYOFF:
You’re spared $5,000 to replace rotten roof framing, as well as ceiling and wall damage.

7. Replace Damaged Asphalt Roof Shingles

WHY NOW:
Many leaks are caused by a broken shingle or a rusted nail that allowed a shingle to slip out of place. A drip now can become a flood later, and the last place you want to be on a frigid winter day is on the roof.
HOW TO DO IT:
Spot damage from the ground using binoculars, or get a closer look from a ladder at the eaves. On the roof, use a pry bar to loosen the shingles above the one that’s broken. Then pry out the nails holding the damaged shingle to remove it. Slip in a new shingle that’s the same width, and secure it with nails.
THE PAYOFF:
Catching a leak before it happens can save you $300 or more to repair a ceiling or wall and up to $6,000 for mold remediation.

8. Patch Cracks in the Driveway

WHY NOW:
Small fissures and holes in asphalt can quickly expand into large gaps and potholes if snow and ice get into them.
HOW TO DO IT:
Wait for a mild day; tar-like asphalt repair products work best when pliable. Clean out loose debris in the hole, and ensure the surface is dry. Using a caulk gun, inject a sealant (try Dupont 7906 Driveway & Repair Caulk, about $18 per four-pack) into the opening. Use a wood craft stick to tamp the sealant level.
THE PAYOFF:
Keeping on top of minor cracks can save you $3 to $6 per square foot to resurface the whole driveway.

9. Lengthen Stubby Downspouts

WHY NOW:
Heavy winter rain can cause pooling near your home’s foundation if your downspout kick-outs are too short. That water can then infiltrate the foundation and be wicked up the side of the house, wreaking havoc along the way in the form of mold, insects, or rot, says Roger Cook. Telltale signs may be a wet spot in your basement after a rain or widening cracks in the foundation.
HOW TO DO IT:
Attach a flexible downspout extender that’s connected to a length of drainage pipe buried just below grade; the pipe should direct water at least 10 feet away from your home’s foundation. Rather than sending that diverted water into a dry well or losing it to the storm drain, put it to work by attaching another length of perforated pipe, wrapped in landscape fabric, that’ll disperse the water to feed your flower beds. To allow for proper drainage, lay the perforated pipe on a 3- to 6-inch bed of washed stone.
THE PAYOFF:
You’re spared $10,000 to $30,000 to jack up the house and replace a rotted main beam, plus $1,000 to $3,000 to repair damaged joists.

10. Quick Change: Screw in LED Exterior Bulbs

Shorter days mean you need outdoor lights to find your way without tripping. So take this opportunity to swap burned-out incandescents for LED bulbs, which screw right into your existing fixtures. For a bright beam that’s equal to a 75-watt incandescent, try Sylvania’s Ultra High-Performance Series LED Narrow Flood, $50; Lowe’s. While pricey, LEDs are more durable and use 75 percent less energy than incandescents. They can also last 22 years or more, so you may never have to climb a ladder to change a burned-out bulb again.

11. Quick Change: Set, Then Forget, the Thermostat

It’s human nature to fiddle with the temperature on an unusually hot or cold day. But overriding the pre-sets on a programmable thermostat wastes energy and reduces the technology to an old-school rotary dial. Achieve peak performance and save up to $180 a year in heating and cooling costs by keeping the temperature fixed for at least eight hours at a time, such as while you’re asleep.

12. Quick Change: Flush the Water Heater

Sediment build-up displaces water and prevents the heater from operating at full capacity. By flushing the tank once a year, usually before winter, you won’t be wasting cash by heating this gunk. Start by turning off the heater and letting the tank cool; then shut off the water supply. If gravity is on your side, connect a hose to the drain cock and run it to a floor drain. If you don’t have a drain, send the water to a sink or bucket using a drill pump (a $15 attachment that will suction water out of the heater). Draining 3 gallons is usually enough, but you may have to fill and flush a few times until the water’s clear.

By: The Editors of This Old House, This Old House online

Get Ready for the Cold Season

Fall means vibrant red, orange, and yellow foliage, lots of pumpkins, and refreshingly cool temps. But, it also means winter isn’t far away. Here are a few projects—from looking after your exterior to maintaining your heating system—that can help your home brace for the cold and save you some cash.

Install and Maintain Paths and Walkways

When crossing your muddy yard to fetch the daily paper turns into an obstacle course of slips and slides, perhaps it’s time to think about an alternative path—literally. Holiday guests to come would also appreciate safe passage to your door. So, take a weekend to lay a brick walkway.

Make sure you check sidewalks and driveways for cracks. If you don’t fill them now, water can seep in and freeze, making them even larger. Take the time to resurface worn concrete now and save you a whole lot of time and money later.

Light the Way With Outdoor Lanterns

Less daylight calls for illumination. You can also enhance the nighttime curb appeal of your home, while adding a measure of safety and security, by installing low-voltage landscape lighting. These exterior-grade fixtures are typically placed along walkways and driveways, but they’re also ideal for illuminating steps, trees, stonewalls, fences and other prominent garden features.

You can also add a charming lamppost to mark the start of your driveway.

Prep Your Landscape and Start Composting

"Grass roots keep growing until the ground gets down to around 40 degrees," says TOH landscape contractor Roger Cook, "so this is a good time to feed them." Apply a high-phosphorus (12-25-12) mix to lawns in fall to encourage roots, so turf greens up earlier in spring.

It’s also a good time to seed a new lawn, start a compost pile, and trim shrubs and trees.

Build a Trash Shed to Hide Unsightly Containers

Nothing mucks up the holiday season curb appeal of your house more than a bunch of beat-up trash cans and overflowing recycling bins scattered next to the side door.

Build a sturdy storage house that hides two 32-gallon trash cans and several stacked recycling bins. Flip-open lids give it easy access so that you can quickly toss something away in the right place. Bifold front doors make it easy to move heavy cans in and out.

Put Light Where You Need It With a Garage Floodlight

If you’ve never been stuck with the task of taking out trash after dinner clean-up, then lucky you. But, in the fall and winter, the last haul often goes out after-dark. Install a motion-sensor garage floodlight to keep you company. It’ll also welcome you and your guests home with its warm illumination.

Speaking of garages, now’s a good time to tidy up the place. For most, the garage sees a lot of action during the summer with yard tools and pool accessories moving in and out. It might be handy to actually get the car in there now that winter weather is on the way. Create a garage storage plan and build a work bench to stow tools if you have the space. Consider replacing the stained concrete slab with an epoxy-coated garage floor that’ll resist oil stains, bead water, and wipe clean.

TOH Tip: While you’re in the garage, fuel up the snow blower so you’re not caught with your gas down when the white stuff comes. Take some time to put your lawn mower to bed with a tune-up that’ll ensure it’s working like new come spring.

Freeze-Proof Exterior Faucets

Even the most intrepid do-it-yourselfer shudders at the thought of a burst water pipe. If not immediately noticed, a ruptured pipe can be both expensive and time-consuming to clean up.

Fortunately, the pipe that’s most susceptible to extremely cold weather—the outdoor hose faucet—is also one of the easiest to protect from freezing. Replace an existing hose faucet with a freeze-proof faucet. You can do it yourself in just a few hours.

Get Your Entry Guest-Ready

Unfortunately, a door’s weather seals, if it has any at all, can rip, compress, bend, or wear out over time, leaving chilly winter air free to enter (or expensive air-conditioned air to leave). Lucky for you, making your door draft-free is a straightforward exercise, far cheaper and faster than installing a new door.

Once that’s done, enhance curb appeal with aesthetic entry upgrades like adding exterior trim, flanking the door with sconces, throwing down a doormat, and swapping entry locksets.

Build a Mudroom Bench With Storage

Fall means back-to-school. Create a stopping area just inside the entry where everyone can leave the weather and dirt from their day behind. Build a mudroom bench that’s the perfect catchall, complete with an open top shelf, coat hooks, and flip-top bench storage.

Maintain Your Washer and Dryer

Left unattended, a burst washing-machine hose can spill hundreds of gallons of water an hour. Likewise, a dryer can erupt in flame if lint is allowed to build up inside the machine or its ducts.

Preventing such mishaps is as easy as replacing a washer’s old rubber hoses, ideally with steel-jacketed ones that can’t split open. Or discarding the dryer’s flimsy—and flammable—vinyl duct and putting a metal one in its place.

Drape Away Drafts

Even after you’ve weatherstripped and caulked them, windows in older homes can still be drafty. Here’s another line of defense against the chills: window treatments.

The right shades, curtains, and even blinds will help retain some portion of the estimated 10 to 30 percent of heat lost through windows in wintertime. Install window shades and you’ll also gain control of natural light.

Give Your Fireplace a Facelift

Chipped bricks, a stained hearth, and years of accumulated soot can turn what should be the focal point of a living room into an eyesore. Replacing a hearth and surround—either with seamless stone slabs or with stone or ceramic tiles—makes a big difference in the way a fireplace looks. Take a look at our 8 steps to giving your fireplace a facelift. For added safety, consider adding glass fireplace doors.
Adding an insert is a smart investment that’s pure win—it’ll keep you warm and slash your heating bills all at once. Complete this energy-efficient upgrade before December 31, and you’ll score yourself a tax credit from Uncle Sam.

TOH Tip: The National Fire Protection Association recommends that getting chimneys swept at least once a year at the beginning of the winter to remove soot and debris. Find a certified sweep in your area via the Chimney Safety Institute of America.

Add Warmth Underfoot With Cork or Carpet

Nothing’s worse than waking up to the icy shock of a cold floor. Resilient yet durable, stylish yet earthy, adding a natural easy-install cork floor can turn any cool room into a cozy haven.

Cork not your thing? Warm up rooms with traditional carpets; here’s how to install wall-to-wall carpeting yourself with professional results.

Create an Efficient Home Office

Few people today would consider remodeling a house without making room for a home office. Chalk it up to the spike in part- and full-time telecommuting, after-hours e-mailing, and an effort to keep the Internet out of kids’ rooms.

Whether it’s a bare minimum desk off the kitchen or a full-blown study with custom cabinets, multiple work surfaces, and extensive file storage, here’s how to create a workstation that’ll work for you.
For added storage in your workspace, build a bookcase or put up wall-mounted shelves

Get Your Heating System Serviced

Before the chill sets in, make an appointment for your furnace’s annual checkup. Without this yearly cleaning and inspection, a system can wear itself out quickly, pump deadly carbon monoxide into your home, or simply stop working.

If you have forced-air heating, change the furnace filter. You’ll notice a difference in the air quality, and your furnace will run more efficiently.

By: Laura Fisher Kaiser

"From small things, Mama, big things one day come," as the song goes. It’s especially true when it comes to your house. Left unchecked, seemingly minor things—a gutter pitched the wrong way, a bit of crumbly grout—can lead to bigger and expensive issues. The good news is that, in many cases, all it takes to head off catastrophe is a little preventive maintenance or an inexpensive repair. "Don’t wait until it’s an emergency," says TOH master carpenter Norm Abram. "Spot-check areas around your house, preferably twice a year, in the fall and spring. And when you do fix something, do it right so that you don’t end up making the problem worse."

Mildew on Foundation Walls

Potential problem: Overgrown foundation plantings can channel water down exterior walls, leading to mold and sill rot. What’s more, roots can work their way into foundation walls and pipes.

Fix it now: Trim shrubs yourself. Better yet, replace them with dwarf varieties that won’t be a perpetual pruning headache. In many parts of the country, planting in early fall gives shrubs a head start at establishing roots in the season’s cool, moist soil. Save money by shopping end-of-season sales at garden centers or hosting a neighborhood plant swap. "Just be sure that any new shrubs are at least 3 feet from the foundation," says TOH land-scape contractor Roger Cook. "Otherwise they’ll keep the siding from being able to breathe."

What you’ll save: Between $400 and $2,500 to fix a water-damaged foundation and sill.

Worn Wood Floors

Potential problem: Failing to maintain the boards’ protective top coat of polyurethane can lead to ground-in dirt and discoloration, and cause wood to dry out and splinter.

Fix it now: At the first sign of wear, sand only the floor’s surface and apply a fresh coat of polyurethane. Pros charge about $1.25 per square foot for this "screen and poly" job, or you can rent a floor-polishing machine and do it yourself for less. Just bring the machine back on time or the cost of additional days’ rental could whittle away at your savings.

What you’ll save: Up to $5 per square foot for a full-fledged refinishing, which requires sanding down to the bare wood. The overall cost depends on how old the floors are, the number of top coats needed, and if you are using stain. Replacing sections where dried-out wood has splintered or cracked starts at $125 and can go up substantially based on the scope of the damage and the floor type.

Weather-beaten Deck Boards

Potential problem: If not kept in check, soft boards and loose outer rails can lead to deck collapse. Probe cracks with a flathead screwdriver; if you can insert it more than ¼ inch or if the wood feels spongy or breaks off without splintering, you may have rot. See if the rails have any give by firmly wiggling them.

Fix it now: Pry off damaged boards. Cut replacements to length and secure them to the supporting joists below using stainless deck screws. Leave a 1/8-inch gap between any new boards for proper drainage. To hide the repairs, stain or preserve the boards to match the rest of the deck. Remedy loose rails and balusters by updating old fasteners with new screws, adding construction adhesive for extra strength. Tighten any loose bolts that secure the rails’ posts to the deck framing. Besides a few hours of your time with a saw, drill/driver, and wrench, expect to spend about 60 cents per linear foot for pressure-treated decking and $14 for a box of stainless screws, both vailable at home centers.

What you’ll save: From $500 to $10,000 for a professional to fix or replace the deck, depending on how widespread the damage is.

Peeling Exterior Paint

Potential problem: Blistering, cracking, or peeling of the protective finish can cause woodwork to rot. Particularly vulnerable are protruding surfaces where water sits, such as windowsills, which may need to be replaced if the damage is extensive.

Fix it now: Scrape, sand, prime, and repaint all trim that has a worn finish. For houses built before 1978, take special care during the paint removal phases to protect yourself, your family, and the environment from lead dust, which is toxic. The easiest way to fix any minor rot damage to the wood surface is to dig it out until you get down to a solid section, then fill the void with an epoxy before refinishing.

What you’ll save: About $135 per window for a pro to replace a sill that’s rotted beyond repair.

Split or Bowed Clapboard

Potential problem: Damaged wood can allow rainwater to make its way into the wall, leading to decay and insect damage. Rot may also spread to surrounding boards.

Fix it now: Replace the board for $100 or less, depending on the wood type. "Don’t just caulk the crack," says Norm. "That’ll get loose and invite more water to get behind the siding." For a tight fit on the first try, mark the old board’s length directly on the new one. Score the cutline using a utility knife, and slice off the overage with a handsaw.

What you’ll save: Up to $3,000 to re-side and rebuild a rotted wall, including new clapboards, sheathing, framing, and drywall inside, plus $2,000 or so for termite or carpenter ant control.

Overhanging Tree Limb

Potential problem: A storm could send large branches crashing down on the roof, and wet leaves against the siding can cause algae to grow, leading to rot. "These branches also act as a superhighway for any kind of varmint wanting to enter your house: squirrels, raccoons, and even rats," says Roger Cook.

Fix it now: Trim a small tree yourself using a pole saw, taking care to leave the branch collar to prevent disease. For bigger jobs hire a professional arborist, who’ll typically quote you a flat rate—figure $75 to $95 an hour, depending on the height of the tree and the number of branches involved. To remove algae from siding, power-wash with a solution of 1 part nontoxic oxygen bleach to 10 parts water; power washers rent for $50 to $75 a day.

What you’ll save: From $50 (for asphalt) to $395 (for slate) per 10-by-10-foot square of replacement roof shingles, plus $150 an hour for labor. Expect to pay $800 to $1,250 to replace 150 square feet of rotted yellow pine, spruce, or fir clapboards, including labor. And to trap those pesky rodents, tack on $300 more.

Gunked-up Gutters

Potential problem: "A clogged, rusted, or tilted gutter can’t do its job of keeping water from splashing back on the roof or cascading down the sides of your house," says TOH general contractor Tom Silva. This can lead to fascia and soffit rot, leaks inside the wall cavity, and framing damage.

Fix it now: Make gutter cleaning and repair part of your annual DIY fall maintenance routine. Scoop out debris. Secure any loose hanger straps, and use a level to ensure that gutters are properly slanted toward the downspouts, about ¼ inch for every 5- to 10-foot section. Then run water from a garden hose to check for leaks. Patch any holes or narrow gaps at the seams with gutter sealant; $5 for a 10-ounce tube at hardware stores.

TOH Tip: Don’t have a trowel handy? Make a gutter scoop out of a plastic milk jug. Just slice off the bottom at an angle.

What you’ll save: Easily $5,000 or more to repair rotted fascia and soffit boards, framing, and drywall. If gutters are left to rust, new seamless aluminum replacements will run you $750 to $1,000 for 150 to 200 linear feet, enough to outfit most homes.

Wobbly Stair Railing

Potential problem: A shaky newel, the vertical post that anchors the rail, is the likely culprit. One weak link like this can put undue stress on the entire balustrade and lead to an accident.

Fix it now: Insert a lag screw through the base of the post and into the staircase framing. One screw will steady most posts, but if it’s still a little wobbly, drive in a second screw. Countersink the fasteners and hide the heads with plugs cut from a 1-inch-diameter dowel. To make this repair, all you need are a few basic tools: a drill/driver, 1-inch spade bit, ratchet wrench, and handsaw.

What you’ll save: About $65 an hour for a carpenter to steady the newel and repair—or replace—snapped spindles. Then there’s what you’d save on hospital bills if anyone took a tumble.

Tired Tub Caulk and Grout

Potential problem: Puckered, missing, or shrunken caulk can allow water to seep into a wall cavity, leading to mold or even wall failure. Likewise, a chunk of missing grout in a tub surround can cause serious water damage behind the tiles.

Fix it now: Recaulking a bathtub is one of the simplest DIY projects. All you need is a $6 tube of mildew-resistant silicone. While you’re at it, touch up the grout using a premixed compound, which runs about $10 per quart. For bigger jobs, mix your own using a $12 bag of polymer-fortified grout powder. Follow the maker’s instructions to mix in just the right amount of water—too little makes grout crumbly, too much will make it cure improperly.

What you’ll save: Up to $2,500 to retile a small section, including partial demolition of the wall and new backer board. Long-neglected leaks could necessitate a $200 to $900 mold inspection, plus $2,000 to $6,000 for remediation if toxic mold is found.